The first time you’re driving upstate and you see a Japanese building perched above I-87, you might do a double take. Next time, turn off the road, go through the big red torii gate, and drive up a private mountain to the sprawling, party-ready time warp that is Mt. Fuji. But call ahead first, because this hibachi restaurant with a view is perpetually packed with folks who enjoy being sung to on their birthdays, preferably by a guy dancing around under a dragon head. (They also do weddings.) Mt. Fuji in Hillburn opened in 1985, and it’s the last remaining location of a NJ hibachi chain that was started in the ’60s by a former Olympic wrestler. (They had nine restaurants at one point; the second-to-last one was demolished recently to make space for a Shake Shack drive-thru.) The heavy wooden tables and booths feel well-weathered, the neon cocktails are syrupy sweet, and the food is a few decades behind the curve. But there’s just something about watching families laughing and clapping as a chef flips an egg into a tall hat and pulls out a stuffed toy chick that feels completely timeless. It’s good, old-fashioned fun with a few modern touches. Your chef might go straight from belting out Stevie Wonder to singing Chappell Roan, and there’s a newer bar area that looks like a classy airport lounge. Time your table reservation for sunset (and request one with a view), but go get a drink at the lounge first: On a clear day you can just about make out the city over the hills.