Two things we love about this all-day corner bistro that looks straight out of a Paris film set: You’re always treated like a regular, even if it’s your first time, and the creative small plates with international influences are several notches above the rest. Kimchi might be paired with cream cheese and puffed buckwheat, and slow-cooked lamb collapses onto its labneh, salsa verde, and pomegranate molasses base the moment it’s prodded. The no-reservation spot is always crowded, but the eagle-eyed staff makes sure there’s no line-jockeying—and tables come to those who agree to wait at the beautiful zinc bar. Sip a glass of natural wine, and have an egg-mayo or anchovies to pass the time.