Cafe Kowloon is “not an authentic Hong Kong restaurant”—someone will tell you that, minutes after you’ve sat down at this hot London Fields hideaway. Along with the words, “we’re doing fun takes”. Which would be fine, if the Hong Kong-inspired dishes were great. Instead, things are hit and miss—overcooked scallops, bland sea bass, but moreish, vinegary aubergine—and explanations feel more like preemptive statements from a kid who's forgotten their homework and is getting their excuses in before they’ve even been asked for it. There is, however, a reason to visit Cafe Kowloon. That reason is a sexy side-sit with your date, in a thrumming, neon-lit railway archway. Get the two-sip martini and prepare to have your Lady & The Tramp lo mein noodle moment bounced around the illicit-feeling, windowless room via strategically placed mirrors. Or, get a gaggle of your coolest friends together for a sceney booth hang where the focus is multiple rounds of cocktails and the delicious Hong Kong french toast.
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