There’s something about the way the staff at Jeun Tong treats me that makes me feel like I’m their daughter-in-law visiting for a meal. Whether it’s the small, unadorned interior that resembles a bare-bones taqueria or the ahjumma who’s often checking on you to see if you need more water or banchan, this family-style restaurant is always super welcoming. The soon tofu is the real draw here, with everything from mandu to oyster to miso as do-si-do partners for the slippery tofu and savory broth, but the buchu jeon (chive pancake) is something to write home to mom about too. Or at least send her a photo so she can live vicariously.