The spirited younger sister to grande dame Acquerello, this hot spot trades in an air of stately luxury for a more hip, lively vibe. The family resemblance is nonetheless apparent in the thoughtful cuisine, which runs Californian by way of Northern Italy. You can snack on a collection of cicchetti at the well-equipped bar while sipping excellent cocktails, but you'll need to nab a table for a more substantial repast. When in season, a gem lettuce salad with sweet Dungeness crab, fine herbs and anchovy dressing might just be the best possible spin on a classic Caesar, but top-notch ingredients are assured at any time of year. House-made pastas naturally meet the grade, as in a multi-layered baked timballo with dry-aged beef and Comté cheese.