Even on a sleepy Monday night, a line snakes out the door at the popular counter that’s made a comeback three years after burning down. EDM bumps as takeout orders move along with mesmerizing speed, and a few families cram into booths to eat their meals fresh from the kitchen. As for ordering, your best bet is the restaurant’s classic teriyaki—it deserves at least a nomination for Succulence In Chargrilled Poultry. The sides are decent, too. We like compact gyoza lined with snappy ridges and the egg rolls that hold up on their own without sauce dunks. On the other hand, some dishes could use more work, like the spicy teriyaki chicken that’s watery and too sriracha-dominant overall.