This decades-old Mexican spot on York Boulevard has a full antojito menu with everything from tortas to tostadas, but coming here without ordering one of their namesake huaraches would like going to the La Brea Tar Bits and not seeing the woolly mammoth. The sandal-sized strips of fried masa come with smooth refried beans in the middle and topped with crumbly cheese, a slightly bitter crema, and a choice of meat (we like the pleasantly greasy cabeza). Order it super-style and they'll pour on a big ladle of salsa verde or roja, too.