We don’t usually spend a lot of time talking about chains, but we’ll make an exception for one that serves fried chicken this good. Gus’s started as a small Tennessee operation more than 60 years ago, and it’s since grown into a nationwide force, one crunchy, spicy thigh at a time. The Austin outpost, steps from the convention center Downtown, stays true to the original formula. The skin is the star here: chestnut brown, crackly, and just spicy enough to sneak up on you. The breading is light—more of a crispy coat than a thick blanket, which keeps the focus on the juicy meat beneath. Sides like creamy mac and cheese and tangy baked beans hold their own, but they’re really just there to make your plate look a little more colorful. Save room for a slice of sticky, sweet chess pie at the end—it’s the only thing that might upstage the main event.