This West Randolph mainstay has been a smash hit for more than two decades – and for good reason. All day long, fans crowd the long counter and close-knit tables that stretch down the length of a restaurant encased head to toe in wood planks. The Mediterranean menu runs with the seasons, and it’s no trouble finding favor in the bold, colorful plates that come out of this smooth-running kitchen. Dishes like roasted asparagus with za’atar buttermilk or chickpea hummus with oyster mushrooms arrive crowned with all manner of vibrant herbs, sauces, and crunchy garnishes. Generously portioned salads and tartines feature prominently at lunch. A second, more spacious location in River North is better suited for larger groups.