Theme parks are amazing. They’re big, they’re loud, and they’re full of exciting attractions. On paper, this is just what Inko Nito sounds like. It’s a huge restaurant with an open kitchen, a banging soundtrack, cocktails on tap, and a big ol’ robata grill. Plus it’s right in the middle of Soho. Sounds exciting right? Well, not so fast. You need to know whether coming here might feel a bit like preparing for a fully catered weekender at world rollercoaster capital, Six Flags Magic Mountain, only to end up at Drayton Manor on a cold drizzly Tuesday. Sure, you still might ride the Buffalo Coaster, but it’s not quite Tatsu. On first glance, the menu at Inko Nito looks like it’s got few decent rides in store, but the food can be a bit hit and miss. That’s not to say you shouldn’t make the trip here. It’s actually a fine place to go, not least because it’s very cool. It’s a huge space, with a modern, industrial feel, and most of the seating surrounds the shiny grill. It’s an impressive set-up, and all the sizzling and abstract angles of the counters make things feel a bit more exciting than they might if you were judging the place solely on the food. So, while it might not be the best example of Asian cooking in London, it is plenty good enough to get out of the house for. Whisky-glazed pork belly, and marinated bone marrow from the robata are especially good, and both go well with the panko and parmesan crunch of the grilled cauliflower, or some fresh, zingy salads. It’s mostly set-up for small-groups and walk-ins, but it’s at its best when you make a reservation for a group dinner or a messy work meal. The kind where you’re sharing everything, where you can order with freedom, trying a bit of everything, safe in the knowledge that it’s not going to get too expensive. When it comes down to it, you’re going to Inko Nito for the lively atmosphere, and relaxed and friendly service. It’s one of the more casual and fun spots in Soho, and you could do worse than riding the dodgems here. Just don’t expect ten consecutive inverted loops and a triple corkscrew.