An Italian-British caff masquerading as a Cockney Carry On film set, E. Pellicci is most famous for being the Kray twins’ local hangout. These days though, the split between tourists taking selfies with the art deco signage and loyal regulars is pretty even—because everyone appreciates textbook fry-ups. This Bethnal Green spot remains as much of an essential London experience as the changing of the guard. But maybe better, because E. Pellicci has Nev. Nev—one-man charisma hurricane, your new best friend, and part of the family who have owned E. Pellicci for a century—dances around his cousin Tony, gently ribbing a group who were defeated by the ‘Have The Lot’ breakfast, dropping off overflowing plates of spaghetti bolognese, and introducing perfect strangers to each other as if he’s the host of Take Me Out. No likey? Then Nev will matchmake you with one of the many regulars nursing mugs of builders tea and sporting cheeky grins instead. The dishes flying out from the kitchen hatch into the worn but warm, wood-panelled room, along with shouts from matriarch Maria, have always been a rotation of comfort foods. They won’t be the best plates of pasta you’ve ever eaten—though the breakfasts are solid—but to pick apart these lovingly prepared dishes, served with a side of banter and maybe a slice of complimentary cake, feels like missing the point.