With the closure of Beverly Soon Tofu, visions of smooth, freshly-curdled tofu may be dancing through your head (they often do mine). In that case, head to this beloved restaurant in San Gabriel just 20 minutes from DTLA, where you’ll dig into what may become your favorite bowl of soon tofu in LA. Make sure to try one of the hearty combination plates, where proteins like kalbi and spicy pork are served side-by-side with tofu soups. And also order the fried yellow croaker - the crispy skin and flaky flesh make me feel like I’m on a dock by the Yellow Sea, frying up a fresh catch next to an old fisherman, which sounds like a welcome vacation right about now.