Folde is an exhale of a restaurant. Calm but chatty, in that neighbour-you-actually-like kind of way. People drift in and out of this vegetarian spot in Battersea, settling into the sofa seating in the morning for goats cheese omelettes topped with homemade crisps, and banana bread so thick and tahini-drizzled it’s basically dessert in brunch clothing. The hash browns—golden, the size of a paperback—are also reason enough to return. The coffee is serious, and everything quietly overdelivers without trying too hard. At dinner, third dates get cosy in the side-by-side seating and birthday gatherings take up a chunk of the main dining room. The focaccia is warm and springy, and the romesco dip (topped with crispy onions and guajillo chilli oil) is the only right way to begin. A few dips, a slab of apricot hot honey-soaked feta here, and a meaty, smoky mushroom skewer there. You’ll be tempted to order a lot and you should because any leftovers will make the kind of salad box that looks like it came out of Whole Foods and serve you well the next day.