The smells, sights, and crowds at Richmond Public Market’s second-floor food court can be overwhelming, so just make a beeline towards Hei Hei Rice Roll and join the queue of approximately 20 people who are also impatiently waiting for the best cheung fun in town. This stand’s stone ground method means the broad rice noodles are pockmarked and ready to hold soy sauce and chili oil, and the way they unfold and rip apart when you pick them is mesmerizing. They’re more like blankets than noodles, and half the fun is getting chunks of beef or shrimp wrapped up in them like a fitted sheet in a tumble dryer. Wash it down with the soy milk Hei Hei makes in front of you and contemplate whether you need another order.