Cooking with fire is all the rage these days and Lita is an expert practitioner, although it also offers so much more. While there’s a strong Mediterranean and southern European element to the menu, prime British ingredients – such as Scottish lobster and Cornish turbot – along with big, bold flavours and well-made sauces really make the dishes sing. Many of the plates are designed for sharing, like dry-aged Devon duck with beetroot and kumquat. This is roll-up-your-sleeves sort of food – the type that leaves you licking your lips and planning your return.