Ria’s is the kind of place to keep in your back pocket when you need a casual date spot in Soho. With the energy of a pokey, cute wine bar and the menu of a Detroit pizza shop, this place feels like it was made for couples. All the best seats—the cosy ground floor corners, the little cove in the basement, and the side-by-side, barely lit counter seats—are for hushed tones and sitting just a little bit too close. If you’re walking in, you’ll likely be taken down the skinny staircase to the basement with one long sharing table, flour bags piled up in the corner, and strangers’ elbows brushing as they stab into crispy smashed potatoes. Bigger groups take either end of the table and lean across ‘nduja-splattered slices to be able to hear each other without shouting across the room. It’s not the comfiest seating but for the thick, pillowy slices, we’re willing to perch. You can order any of the Detroit-style pizzas by the slice, and the house pie—tomato, ricotta, basil, and lemon—is a tall, saucy work of art and our favourite order. The move here is to come on a fun little date night, get some drinks and some slices, before heading out for dessert elsewhere or a nightcap nearby.