In the shadow of the New York Public Library, Chef Keiji Nakazawa exemplifies mastery of the highest order. His omakase is utterly unique. The progression ebbs and flows with a dazzling variety of fish, shellfish, vegetables and more; applying an extensive use of fermentation techniques first developed in Japan. Reverent, while also honoring flexibility and evolution, the chef and team are constantly honing their craft. The setting is its own marvel and features a Hinoki counter flanked by towering ice boxes fronted with carved wood doors, while all around, the kitchen and service teams work in perfect tandem. In total, the pace, breadth and persistence of excellence that unfolds here will impress even the most experienced sushi enthusiasts.