Camélia has the refined confidence of Cary Grant in a convertible. You sense it the second you see the place. This gorgeous French-Japanese bistro from the Tsubaki people knows exactly who it is, which is refreshing in a city notorious for superficiality. And as you sit in the orb lights’ sultry glow, drinking umeshu-infused martinis and eating duck frites and ham katsu croque madames, you might as well be the most cosmopolitan person in Los Angeles. Camélia delivers everything you want from a high-energy, upscale dinner. The words upscale, French, and bistro strung together might lead you to assume this place is stuffy, but Camélia never takes itself too seriously. Early 2000s hip-hop reverberates throughout the space, and friendly servers go off script to chat music, wine, and Chinese zodiac signs. But there's still enough sophistication oozing from Camélia’s handsome wood-paneled walls to host a client dinner, or your parents for a night of cocktails and soufflé, without compromising on fun. It’s a refreshing contrast of qualities, which is another way to describe everything you’ll eat here. Dishes register as French but have Japanese inflections tucked within. They can be as subtle as oysters with a ponzu mignonette or as creative as koji-marinated roasted chicken in a pool of salty, seaweed-infused cream. Whether these spins jump out to you or not, they'll leave you dreading the end of a genre-blurring meal. Another umeshu martini? Sure—you need more time to yap with your dinner date and marvel at Camélia’s juicy chicken. Just know that partaking in such cosmopolitan pleasures can get pricey. Save this Arts District bistro for a special occasion when eating well is a top priority, or any night with room in the budget for a little glamour.