Pierre Touitou – one of the emblematic chefs of the new Parisian bistronomy – has already made his mark on the trendiest echelons of the capital's restaurant scene (Vivant etc). Black and white floor tiles pave the way to an open kitchen separated off with a stainless steel-topped counter – eat here for a front row view of the action in the kitchen. The chef and his brigade can be seen conjuring up food in a fresh, creative vein. The seasonings and condiments leave nothing to chance – eg the house-made harissa on the ox tongue and spinach pkaila (Jewish Tunisian stew), or the fresh peas with capers, toasted pine nuts and barberry that accompany the bonito. As you would expect, natural wines take pride of place. Pure dining pleasure.