To mark its 20th anniversary, Chef Michael and Lindsay Tusk have given their restaurant a luxe refresh that has reinvigorated the early 1900's Jackson Square setting. The commitment to seasonality and locality is striking, with much of the produce sourced from their partner farm. Dinner here celebrates the season with an array of elegant presentations. A small bowlful of gently cooked first-of-the-season peas are served in a silky broth brimming with flavor from guanciale and Tomales Bay clam. Pasta has always been a highlight here, and the agnolotti filled with white asparagus is no exception. Local lamb cooked in the fireplace is arranged with a springtime melange of fava beans, green garlic, and edible blossoms, and accompanied by freshly baked bread tinted by vegetable ash.