Stepping into Pho Xe Lua is like stepping into the ’90s–tables are set with Chinese zodiac paper placemats, there’s a lobster tank in the entry, and scenes of palm trees and beaches are etched in enamel in the glass dividers. Time warp aside, it serves some excellent, flavorful pho in huge portions–the pho tai always arrives piping hot, its slices of rare beef and white onion cooking in the broth. It can be tough to find when Chinatown is bustling, so keep an eye out for the glowing neon choo choo train in their window.