Despite its name, Kingdom of Dumpling is less "palatial" and more "barely fits a king-size bed," and always a joy to visit. People cram in here elbow-to-elbow, digging into platefuls of steamed and boiled dumplings. There are a couple of dozen varieties to choose from, all golf-ball-sized and suited up in chewy skin that never gets gloopy. Our favorites, though, are the pork and napa cabbage and pork, shrimp, and chives versions (whose fillings soak up the soy sauce and vinegar like parched sponges). The one bummer is the pork xiao long bao, which has plenty of soup but a skin that’s too thick. And while it would be perfectly reasonable to come to Kingdom of Dumpling for dumplings alone, you're better off throwing in some non-wrapped dishes into your order, like smacked cucumbers, liangpi, beef tendon, and a tear-and-share plate of green onion pancakes. Just don't bring a group. Given the size of the restaurant—and the constant traffic jam of staff bringing in fresh dumplings from the kitchen next door—it gets hectic in here during prime lunch and dinner hours. You can always take advantage of this Parkside spot’s very efficient takeout operation if there's a wait, though.
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