Kar Son, the slick new Chinese spot inside The Row, has some chaotic elements: you’ll probably wait a while for your reservation, compete with 20-somethings in head-to-toe Givenchy and families that you saw doing tai chi exercises outside in flagging down a server, and be slightly befuddled by a menu that is all over the proverbial map (of China). But once you sit down and the parade of excellent Chinese dishes arrives hot and fast, you’ll agree Kar Son has serious potential. The Yunnan grilled branzino is bright and zesty, the stir-fried green beans give Din Tai Fung a run for its money, and the Sichuan fried chicken is pitch-perfect in tingly spice. We’ve yet to try a single dish that was less than stellar. Now they just need to get the rest sorted out—including their liquor license.