After sidestepping waiters luring you in for an overpriced aperitivo, stop for dinner at Dar Filettaro in Campo de' Fiori. It’s our pick for Rome’s iconic baccalà, the massive filet of fried salted cod. Even though the setting is laid back, their fish is anything but casual: so tender yet crispy, you might wake up the Pope with every bite. And you can’t have the baccalà without the puntarelle. The curly chicory shoots tossed in an anchovy vinaigrette bring some much-needed acidity to the party. If the weather’s nice, grab a table outside on the lively piazza where you can gaze at the slightly-leaning Santa Barbara dei Librai church.