Zentarou in the Sunset is a sushi bar that feels like a spa. A trickling mini-fountain welcomes diners at the entrance, the room is dark and hushed, and electronic music hums at a meditative volume. You’re here to relax—and to eat some excellent sushi. The best way to experience said sushi is through the $136 nine-course omakase that comes with a dozen nigiri (there’s also a six-course $92 option). It’s how you’ll get to see Zentarou’s full range of fish, from a simple amberjack sprinkled with lemon zest to a zuke toro that’s been marinated for at least 24 hours. Whether at the bar or a table, your experience is largely the same. Chats with the chef are limited, and the sushi-making process is shielded from view, though you’ll hear the quiet sizzle of blowtorches and knives clapping against a cutting board. The nigiri that emerge from behind the counter are dialed in so precisely that no detours to a pool of soy sauce and wasabi are necessary. Toro and shiro magura are buttery and charred until the edge of being burnt. The red snapper topped with smoky mentaiko is one of the best bites in the lineup. Non-sushi dishes also have a strong showing: chawanmushi is so smooth you could take it like a Jell-O shot, and the ice cream is as good as any scoop from Hometown Creamery down the street. Aside from a few playful touches like clumps of 24-carat gold and gold leaf dustings, Zentarou skips the theatrics. It doesn’t need them.