We're not sure the exact moment it happened—maybe it was always the case—but at some point, LA became a hotbed for big, oversized Italian sandwiches. In recent years, places like Lorenzo California, Tre Mani, Bread Head, All’Antico Vinaio, and Mamie have all thrown their hats into the Great Focaccia Ring (trademark pending) and continue to have lines that snake out the door. It’s fair to wonder if there’s still room for a place like Bay Cities, an old-school, family-owned Italian deli in Santa Monica that dates back to 1925 that's home to one of the most recognizable sandwiches in the city. We're here to tell you that the answer is still, unequivocally, yes. We don’t need to overexplain the Godmother. This cold-cut behemoth is arguably as synonymous with the Westside as palm trees and traffic on the 405. If you’re at Bay Cities, you’re almost certainly getting one. But there are some important tips to know before you unwrap. For starters, always order online and bypass the line. Second, always order your sandwich with “The Works” (dressing, hot peppers, mustard, mayonnaise, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and onions). And finally, don’t worry about eating your sandwich right away—in fact, we find this particular sandwich benefits from a little “aging.” Bay Cities’ dense, chewy Italian rolls, while flavorful, can be a bit tough, but after stewing in the sub's juices for a half-hour or so, the peppers and dressing ever so slightly soak into the bread and produce a more harmonious sandwich. That’s why ordering “The Works” is key. Bay Cities is more than just the Godmother, though. There are nearly 50 other sandwiches on the menu, many of which have their own loyal following, like the bologna-topped Poorboy or the Little Don Lorenzo with prosciutto and roasted tomatoes. It’s also a great specialty market in general. Even if you order online, give yourself a few minutes to browse the cheese counter, wine area, and aisles of imported goods. Don’t be surprised when you walk out with three sandwiches and some hand-painted dinner plates under your arm.