People start lining up outside Leona General twice a week, about two hours before the doors open, with just as many road-trippers on a sacred steak pilgrimage as locals here for their weekly routine. The menu is simple. There’s beef and pork ribeyes, chicken breast, and a few cobblers and puddings for dessert. Bring your own beer or wine (or grab some from the small general store next door), help yourself to the salad bar, then wait in the large dining room that feels like a Coen Brothers take on rural Texas, complete with creaky floors and faded photos. There’s no fancy cuts or wagyu here, because they don’t need them. Leona does one thing extremely well: a house-rubbed ribeye over an open flame, charred at the edges and perfectly pink in the middle.