A dinner at Amelia’s means embracing the chaos of eating Cuban pork katsu at a West Kendall restaurant inspired by Prohibition. It’s all over the place. Don’t try to make sense of it. Just appreciate the great time you’re having, because a celebratory restaurant this far west is a precious resource. Two back-to-back visits at Amelia’s can feel like eating at two different restaurants. That has a lot to do with the range of live music. Wednesdays are flamenco nights, and you can wave your napkin while eating paella. On Thursdays and Saturdays, it’s jazz and old-timey French songs. It’s a fun, albeit random experience that pairs well with the fun, albeit random menu. There’s a Latin/Asian thing going on here that, for the most part, works. Dishes include Korean arroz con mariscos, fritas, and lomo saltado. Amelia’s started out as a little Cuban diner before it expanded and took over the dry cleaner next door. They honor their former neighbor’s spirit by greeting guests at the entrance with a non-functional washing machine and a garment conveyor. We appreciate the attempt at a speakeasy, even though you can clearly see into the dining room. With its tasseled lampshades and regal wallpaper, Amelia’s can feel a little clichéd, like if Epcot tackled the Prohibition era. But the cocktails are great, the ambitious fusion mostly sticks the landing, and the restaurant is giving locals deep in Miami’s suburbs an excuse to have a night on the Coral West Plaza in their crispiest guayaberas.
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