The most straightforward thing about Poco might be its name. This single-room restaurant towards the bottom of Main Street is definitely little, with just 25 seats including the bar. Art nouveau prints on the walls, rustic wood tables, and loud bumping music from your past and present might seem like a confused mix in, say, a written description like this one, but it’s clear upon entering this usually crowded spot that mixing things up is the main idea, and one that starts in the kitchen. Crispy wings served with a whipped local blue cheese might share space on a constantly changing menu with beef ssam, or a pork bolognese with roasted shiitakes doused in goma dare over rice. Everything's meant to be shared so come with a friend or two and order four or five dishes, including the impossibly crispy-tender smashed fingerlings that are something of a mainstay.