If you were to imagine the type of brasserie that might exist off the marina on the French Riviera, we’re pretty sure something like Astoux et Brun would come to mind. Among the many similar tourist-focused raw bars along the waterfront, this busy fish house is the best. The other spots are just imitating this long-running institution, which has been serving shellfish—often shucked on the street—roasted fish, citrusy carpaccio, and other freshly caught crustaceans for nearly three-quarters of a century. Astoux et Brun works for lunch or dinner (they’re open all day), and, if you’re in town for a conference or convention, is the place to be for late-night oysters and a glass of wine.