Gam Gam is a kosher restaurant that’s open all day. So if you want a casual dinner at 6pm, or are desperate for lunch at 3pm, this is the place. The real draws here are the Mediterranean dishes, like the Specialty Of The House, an impressive amount of tiny plates that range from creamy hummus with a slick of tahini down the middle to fried cubes of eggplant. The charif hot sauce served on the side adds flavor and zing to everything. There’s also subtly spiced couscous topped with stewed vegetables or beef that’s particularly hearty. The straightforward inside space has bright lights and good air conditioning (important), but the tables with big umbrellas along the busy Cannaregio canal are really the place to be.