Not everywhere is about ‘a scene’ – in the basement of the Flemings Mayfair hotel is a restaurant for those who prefer a more discreet, almost secretive environment, away from both hurly and burly, where the style of service is unapologetically formal. The set menus come in two lengths – with pescatarian and vegetarian versions available – and mine such top-drawer ingredients as Cornish mackerel and Orkney scallops. The chef’s Moroccan heritage comes through in dishes like roast Anjou pigeon with preserved lemon and sauce Marocain, and the English saffron dessert with nadorcott.