Innovative, serious and well-established, Wakuriya successfully blends a deep respect for the kaiseki tradition with a contemporary touch. This is largely thanks to the lone chef behind the counter, Katsuhiro Yamasaki; his wife deftly manages the dining room. Each month brings a new, refined menu that combines the chef’s personal style with superlative Japanese and Californian ingredients. Courses are uniquely presented, as in a silver spoon cradling chunks of poached lobster with dashi gelée, soft-boiled Jidori egg and fried kombu. This may not be a sushiya, but the sashimi course is nonetheless excellent. Find that same level of talent in the steamed Alaskan black cod with fluffy grated turnip, and the shirako tofu topped with kabocha squash tempura.