Stop us if you’ve heard this one before. A candlelit wine bar serving fancy cheeseboards and bottles of primitivo opens in a disused London archway. Only, Quill—housed in one of Borough Yards’ railway arches—is different because it shows the kind of commitment to its charming, ye olde cause rarely witnessed outside of a steampunk convention. Here, the superbly meaty tennis ball-sized scotch egg is cured in tea, dessert is headlined with the words ‘is one not done?’, and inexplicably, Victoriana Daniel Craig is printed on a perch-ready cushion. Hours melt away like evenings spent with a beloved novel. Between admiring the kitsch chandeliers up in the ‘treehouse’ mezzanine and smothering a juicy hot dog in a cheese and mustard fondue-style sauce, Quill is so cosy that excuses to stay come easy. It might be that someone's dog is curled up asleep at your feet, the chatty server has sat down beside your table to introduce you to a bottle of buttery, fizzing crémant, or a glass of mulled wine is merrily holding you and your date hostage out on the heated terrace. Don’t expect too much high-brow faff from the food—almost everything at Quill follows the comforting cheese and carbohydrate equation, but sometimes all you need is a bite of gloriously stinky stilton and another bottle of something French and spicy.