Apizza Scholls was a pioneer of Neopolitan(ish) pies in Portland when it burst onto the scene two decades ago, and it still draws in fans who line up on Hawthorne before the doors open. That’s because they take the best of wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza—thin, charred crust, and all—and supersize it. These pies are more American in taste, big as hubcaps with lots of toppings. You can order half-and-half pizzas to try more styles, so get one split between the briny salami and cracked green olive, and the Pig and Pineapple, a Hawaiian variation with house-cured and smoked canadian bacon, red onions, and pineapple. We recommend making it a PB&J, with the addition of pickled jalapeños for an extra bite.