Berenjak belongs on any list of objectively hot things, right up there with confidence, the tenor saxophone, and Catherine Zeta-Jones. Attached to Soho House in the Arts District but open to the public, this Persian spot from London has perpetual “candlelit dinner during a power outage” energy. Once your eyes adjust to the space, you’ll see silhouettes of schmoozing publicists and herds of people licking yogurt dip off their fingers. The food here isn't groundbreaking in a city known for incredible Persian food, but if you order correctly by sticking to the hits (that mast-o-musir) and avoiding the duds (the lackluster stews), Berenjak more than does the trick when you want to slip on an outfit best described as "sharp" and blur into a shadowy corner with friends. You won't be the only one. Berenjak's moody scene makes indoor tables competitive. Despite the dining room's ballroom size, it can be surprisingly tough to book a booth if you don’t plan a few days ahead. We say just go for a table outside, which is just as sultry (and way better lit). Olive trees flank all sides, and the people-watching in the courtyard is as much of a treat as you’d expect at a Soho House-adjacent restaurant. There’s also an outdoor bar area, but it’s a little too far removed from the action, and not quite large enough for decent-sized groups. In fact, group dining is the name of the game at Berenjak. Similar to a Westwood kabob house or a banquet hall full of aunties drinking mint tea, the fun of the meal here lies in the table-covering spread you demolish with help from some friends. Within arm's reach of your seat, plan to have a few tangy dips, charcoal-kissed kebabs, and some Earl Grey martinis to fuel a game of “Is that Pedro Pascal or just a guy with a mustache?” There are two routes to get there: order a la carte, or opt for the $90 set menu with buttery sumac-dusted rice, puffy taftoon, four types of mazeh for the table, and one grilled kabab per person. The set meal is the better choice, since it features the restaurant's strongest dishes, and you’ll probably spend around the same price on a la carte anyway. Between the standouts dips and hot-from-the-oven breads, the smoky (sometimes underseasoned) kabobs, and the tea cocktails that riff on Persian traditions in fun ways, the menu at Berenjak has enough excitement to keep everyone happy during a sexy little night out. Just don't be surprised if the room ends up driving the conversation as much as what's on the plate.
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