Mamma Maria has five dining rooms spread out across two floors of a 19th-century townhouse. If it’s your first time here, be sure to follow the host—otherwise, you might get lost in the labyrinthine space and never find your way out. But if that happens, there are worse places to be stuck. Order the burrata, the earthy-sweet beet salad, and the heady gorgonzola-stuffed figs with buttery prosciutto and speck. For mains, the seared black bass is a stunner, and the meltingly tender osso buco on saffron risotto has the well-deserved honor of being the only constant presence on the otherwise ever-changing menu. Dessert is a must, especially the chocolate torte with amarena cherries.