Tabú didn’t have to make their food delicious. The Tulum-themed Williamsburg spot could have just relied on their huge outdoor area covered with parasols, a DJ stand with its own water-feature as a backdrop, and their excellent cocktails to bring people in the door. But the food is good, bordering on great—making this a clubstaurant that’s as exciting on a Wednesday as it is on Saturday. On any of those evenings, you’ll find dancers in flowy costumes flitting between the fronded plants and two stone bars. And while we wouldn’t be surprised if the owners seriously considered filling the courtyard in with white sand at some point, there’s plenty of attention to detail in the seafood-oriented kitchen too. Tabú serves mostly smaller portioned food, so order a bunch of things, including a couple of tacos, a raw fish dish or two, and some stellar chips and guacamole. Several cocktails come in vessels that could only loosely be defined as glassware, but they’re highly drinkable—and Tabú is the kind of place where you’ll want to try a few. Come here for a loose evening. Just keep in mind that although the floaty beach-club music is loud enough to sway to, the restaurant is on a quiet side street, and the outdoor area closes by 11pm.