Akiro is a triple threat: great food, cool, minimalist design, and flawless service. It calls itself a Nikkei handroll bar, but it also holds its own as a sushi-ya, or sushi counter restaurant. Top Nikkei choices include the ebi furai, or tempura-battered shrimp and chili-garlic mayo, or the acevichado filled with chunks of tender seabass in spicy ají amarillo vinegar. But if you’re a strict Japanese purist, the buttery-smooth toro sashimi and the seared tuna nigiri would hold their own in Tokyo.