At Wolfgang’s, the porterhouse is served sliced on a tilted plate with sizzling meat juices pooled at the front. If that sounds like Peter Luger, it’s not a coincidence. Wolfgang Zweiner logged nearly 40 years as a waiter at that classic Brooklyn steakhouse before launching his namesake restaurant, which now has four locations in NYC, a few in Jersey, and over a dozen in Asia. The chain might lack the old-school charm of its historical forebear, but the steak is just as good. The original location is on Park Avenue, but if you want something roomier and considerably less hectic, head to this one in Tribeca. The place is big as a banquet hall with chandeliers the size of wagon wheels and tables that fit up to 12. Birthday parties aren’t uncommon, and there are always plenty of finance types swirling California cab in Bordeaux glasses. Order a ripping hot porterhouse, and round out your perfectly excessive meal with the greasy creamed spinach and hash brown-style german potatoes that will test your sodium tolerance. To finish, try a sundae capped with a messy heap of schlag—another Luger classic that travels well.
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