London’s landscape of cutesy shops, that are also wine bars, that also serve a small plate or three, are a runaway train fuelled by a seemingly never-ending supply of lambrusco and pét-nat. Still, Half Cut Market does all of these things very well—and it’s something that the bit between Kentish Town and Caledonian Road didn’t know it needed. By day it’s a classic shoppy-shop, where £20 vanishes more quickly than a bag of artisan crisps on the Heath, but by night the neons come out, the bouncing ‘90s playlist is turned up, and a plate of a deep-fried quail is hoovered by mullet-sporting sorts. It’s a fun place to be on a Friday night, especially for a couple of hours grazing, but Half Cut also has some chops to it. There’s some serious sommelier experience attributed to its ownership in the form of managing the wine list at Mountain and, although not everything on the changing menu is a knockout, there’s a tonne of potential here. That deep-fried quail and charred cabbage with comté custard show a seriousness about food too. More than anything, Half Cut Market is having fun with it all—and that shouldn’t be undervalued.