Fluffy, fragrant biryanis propelled the original Hyderabadi Zaiqa in Hell's Kitchen to our list of top Indian restaurants. Part of what made their food so impressive was its unlikely source: a cramped basement restaurant with metal stools and simple schoolroom colors. This Murray Hill sequel is around 12 times bigger, with a mezzanine floor and dozens of tables. Add fake flowers and a blown-up biryani map on the mustard-yellow walls, and Hyderabadi Zaiqa looks almost poised for corporate expansion. But even on this bigger stage (where a sign above the kitchen warns "Entry With Head Cap Only"), the food still shines. As with the original, the kitchen does a pretty good—and pretty fast—job with big swathes of Indian cooking from chaat to Punjabi to Indo-Chinese. But the dozen-odd biryanis are what really set it apart (go for anything with goat). Poke around for other dishes from the greater Hyderabad area, and you’ll be rewarded with things like haleem with stewed meat approaching a pate-like consistency. But wander through other regions, too. We like to start our meals here with the radioactively red chicken (or gobi) 65, an iconic dish from Chennai.
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