More elegant than cozy, this omakase-only spot from Chef Paul Ko offers a contemporary blend of kaiseki and sushi in a stylishly modern setting. The spacious room features an assortment of tables, but seats at the cypress wood counter are preferred for the optimal experience. The meal begins with composed bites featuring international flavors, like a crisp phyllo pastry of duck confit, maple and pistachio, or a kombu-cured sea bass crudo paired with tarragon, yuzu kosho and apple. The assortment of nigiri is largely distinguished by subtlety, as in kanpachi topped with a shiso relish, or tender anago dusted with sansho pepper.