Heads up, this place feels a hell of a lot like Sushi By Scratch. (Both restaurants were started by the same chef.) Once you’re past that, settle into this cozy underground bunker and order a cold, effervescent Japanese highball or a sake flight. Then sit back as 17 more-fun-than-traditional courses appear before you, like bluefin tuna topped with everything bagel spice, and dessert-like A5 wagyu brushed with brown butter miso.