Poon’s is a storied family in Chinese cooking that once owned a hugely popular West End restaurant in the 1970s. Now, the next generation has reimagined the family brand into what may be the most graceful and grown-up lunch in all of London. You’ll find it in Somerset House, an already picturesque setting, made even more beautiful by the hand-painted murals and little touches that decorate all of Poon’s. Come midday, this elegant dining room is humming with ladies who lunch and tasteful sorts discussing politics at the communal counter. At night the crowd is the same, but this room feels more serene (and useful) in the daytime. Especially with an enticing three-course set menu. The Poon family album lines the walls and the owners stop to chat regularly about this or that. There’s a vast amount of choice and immediately ordering the wind-dried meats claypot rice is a good place to start. Pair it with plump wontons and greens, and you have a dream meal. Not everything hits. The duck salad is one-dimensional, while the broth in the zha jiang noodles is non-committal to any flavour. Still, the elegant setting and plump poussin make up for occasionally muted flavours and lunches rarely get more tranquil than this.