Not too far from Lucien’s heavy bronze front door in La Jolla, tourists on kayaks paddle in and out of caves. Eating dinner here might be the next best thing, with a dark interior somewhere between an art studio and an underwater grotto. The French-Japanese restaurant serves what you might expect out of a sea cave, too, with a $312, 12-course tasting menu focused heavily on local seafood. Dishes change all the time, but highlights include caviar on top of silky egg custard, served in an actual eggshell, and, if you’re lucky, some version of delicate Dungeness crab lathered in citrus and mezcal. Or a duo of spiny lobster and scallop swimming in a shallow pool of punchy Madras curry sauce. The courses from the land hold their own, too, and on recent visits we’ve had wood-fire-kissed wagyu ribeye slow-cooked in beef collagen, and a slab of tender pork belly perched next to sweet dried persimmons. Dinner runs nearly three hours long, including an invitation for a kitchen tour, so make sure you bring someone who can hold a conversation, or at least someone whose eyes you don’t mind gazing into for a while.