‘Kontrast’ is not just a name at this sleek, fittingly stark restaurant in the city’s former industrial district; the concept informs everything they do, from the make-up of the international team to the smart combinations of ingredients in the dishes. A rich stew of superb langoustine claw meat, for example, is balanced by the fresh crunch and perfectly judged acidity of pickled carrot. While the dining area benefits from a softly lit intimacy, the open kitchen is brighter so that your eye is drawn to the supremely talented chefs.