We can’t remember the last $5.45 supermarket California roll we ate. Not because we don’t eat them, but because they’re almost all forgettable. Enter Maruta Shoten, a grab-and-go Japanese deli and market in Georgetown that works wonders with mayo-mushed imitation crab. They also sell buttery salmon, seared albacore, and tuna sashimi that rivals the fish at Seattle’s fanciest omakase operations—but costs a twelfth of the price. And if the refrigerated shelves look bare at any given moment, just wait a few minutes for someone to bring out fresh packs.