There are plenty of Italian restaurants in the city, so it’s tough for a new Italian spot to stand out from the crowd. Barberio Osteria (from the Altovino team) stands out simply for their oak coal roasted fish. They’re a legend. You have three options, like a crispy mackerel surrounded by herbs, onions, salsa verde, and an incredible whole roasted lemon—this dish will immediately have you ordering another one. Unfortunately, many of the other dishes at this Mission spot skew unremarkable, like the ‘nduja spread that lacks a kick, and the triangoli served in brown butter that’s missing its nutty flavor. Still, the moody candle-lit space and extensive drink menu (which includes great low-ABV drinks like the Gregorio Sour with white vermouth, lemon egg white, and red wine) make this a solid date night spot, and one that should center around fish.