Being in Uptown Park, you might think Étoile would be a flashy spot, especially given how many Tiffany blue Rolls Royce’s are parked outside (at least one, which is a lot). But inside, the atmosphere is more relaxed and smells like White Diamonds perfume and crisp peppercorns. People here consider a caviar appetizer to be a casual choice, the same way you might consume canned condensed soup. Besides the vibe, the food, like beautifully deboned Dover sole swimming in warm butter or tender duck floating on a whipped mound of butternut squash, makes Etoile the best French restaurant in the city.